Hen of the Wood
55 Cherry Street
Burlington, VT
http://Menu https://www.henofthewood.com/
Best restaurant in Burlington?
James Beard Nominee Hen of the Wood is the only restaurant I know where customers sit at the bar talking only about the food. Things start with an extensive wine and signature cocktail list that does not disappoint. And then … you’re off.
The service starts with Troy – my bartender and waiter for the evening. Troy beams at my interest in the rabbit and reassures it won’t disappoint. Fellow revelers in the bar talk about the oysters. And the soft-shelled crabs. And whatever they ordered tonight. What they had last week. What they would say was their favorite if they really had to choose. What they order every time.
And more than one trip seems necessary here at Hen. I never made it to the steak tartare or the dry cured Coppa (pork) or the Hen of the Woods mushroom toast.
Starting with a soft-shelled crab (recommended by the tipsy, talkative stranger beside me), I gaze upon the dish. You can’t just dig in. You are compelled to admire your food here at Hen. The beautiful, fat crustacean peeks from languid gem lettuces abed a full-bodied yet light mayo-celery sauce. Shaved radishes so fresh they add crunch and sweetness and nothing more make the dish more than a soft-shelled crab. It’s an experience I don’t want to end.
Troy notices I’ve chased the crab with the last of my vieuxx carre (a rye cocktail with bitters, triple sec and a hint of fresh lemon zest). I ask him for a recommendation for a full-bodied red to pair with the hare and Troy suggests a French Bordeaux smiling approvingly when I allow that my palate prefers Old World reds. Troy’s choice is, not surprisingly, spot on.
A good thing too as my fried rabbit, peppery and aromatic, arrives from the kitchen minutes after
Troy pours my merlot. Resting on smoked asparagus and a potato puree, the dish suggests someone in the kitchen has a sense of humor.
Two plump rabbit filets – filling the senses with their most pleasant aroma – peer rabbit-like from under an asparagus and grilled radicchio nest. Light, tender, mild and flavorful. With so much to tempt, knowing you’ve chosen the best thing on the Hen menu leads to a smug relationship with your food. And then again, a bit of eavesdropping on the bar chat reveals everyone else here feels the same.
Reassurances that a dairy allergy would be no problem prove well-kept. The cheese course is fun to read even for one who cannot partake. 
Though a full dessert list includes house made sorbets and a host of off-limits options, I’ve had my fill.
Have I enjoyed a meal more than mine here at Hen of the Wood? Like its namesake fungi, there it sits on Cherry Street in Downtown Burlington, like a plump hen in a nest, feathers ruffed around her neck. Hen of the Wood is at once a comestible quilt and snug culinary destination removed from place. The best meal ever? Perhaps. Like everyone else here tonight, I’m in love with my food. This food.
